Free Crochet Shawl Pattern – Easy To Make

Love this? Share it on Pinterest or Facebook.

Are you looking for a free crochet shawl pattern that's relaxing to make and uses up some of that lovely yarn in your stash? My Winter Frills Shawl has a simple 2-row repeat that you'll memorise in no time, stripes that get wider as you go, and also a pretty picot frill to finish it off.

I paired a deep solid purple with a hand-dyed purple yarn full of bright neon speckles, and I love how the speckles pop against the solid stripes, and I was really thrilled with the results (hence the name choice). Every stitch has been designed, made and tested by me, so you can crochet with confidence.

You could even use up oddments from your yarn stash for the stripes. They don't need to be in the same colour throughout because your stripes could be a colourful mix. You can really have fun with this, and try some new colour combinations.

There is a FREE PDF for the first 48 hours only (until Monday 9th. November 12.30pm UK time). Scroll down beneath the written instructions and you will find the box to grab your free PDF in either US or UK crochet terms.

Purple striped crochet shawl with a speckled picot frill, free crochet shawl pattern

Stash To Sparkle 2026 Blog Hop

The Winter Frills Shawl is Pattern 4 of 8 in Stash To Sparkle 2026, the festive stash-busting blog hop I'm running with Carmen from Annie Design Crochet.

Carmen releases a new pattern every Wednesday and I release mine every Saturday, from Wednesday 28th October to Saturday 21st November. Then on Wednesday 25th November, we'll share a round-up of all eight patterns in one place.

You can read all about the hop, and find every pattern as it's released, on my Stash To Sparkle 2026 event post.

Why You'll Love This Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

  • It's so relaxing to make. Once you've worked the first few rows, it's the same 2 rows all the way, and therefore perfect for crocheting in front of the TV.
  • The stripes grow as you go. Each contrast stripe is wider than the last, which keeps things interesting and gives a lovely graduated look.
  • That frill! A simple picot edging adds a pretty, textured finish without lots of extra work.
  • It's stash-friendly. Use one skein of a special speckled yarn, or play with oddments for the stripes.
  • It wears beautifully. The asymmetric shape wraps easily around your neck like a scarf, or drapes over your shoulders.
  • It makes a thoughtful gift. Make one in their favourite colours so it's a gift they'll reach for all winter.
Woman hold a purple striped crochet shawl across her back to show it full length,

Level of Difficulty

I'd describe this shawl as advanced beginner. It uses basic stitches (US half double crochet; UK half treble crochet and US double crochet; UK treble crochet), along with a simple decrease, cluster stitches, and picots for the frill. If these sound new to you, don't worry because everything is explained fully in the Special Stitches section below.

If you're comfortable working in rows and keeping your stitch count, you'll be fine. The stitch counts after every stripe help you stay on track, and once you've done Rows 5 and 6 a few times, the rhythm really clicks. It's therefore a great confidence-building project once you've mastered the basics.

How to Get Your Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

  • Find the full pattern instructions written out below. You don't need to sign up or log in because it's written out free right here on the blog.
  • Printable PDF: You can purchase an ad-free PDF pattern if preferred, to save and use as many times as you like. Thank you for your support.
    • Purchase your Crochet Shawl Pattern on Ravelry or on Etsy

There is a FREE PDF for the first 48 hours only (until Monday 9th. November 12.30pm UK time). Scroll down beneath the written instructions and you will find the box to grab your free PDF in either US or UK crochet terms.

Copyright

Please read the copyright terms, which apply globally, before using or downloading your pattern:

The contents of this page, including the pattern instructions and images, are published under copyright to me ©Lynne Rowe 2026 under my brand Knit Crochet Create® and are for your own personal use only.

You are welcome to sell items made from this pattern for charity fundraising purposes, or to gift them to family and friends, but selling small numbers for profit is only allowed with permission. If you'd like to sell shawls you've made from it, please email me at lynne@knitcrochetcreate.com first. I'm always happy to say yes for small numbers! I ask you to get in touch because it helps protect designers like me from our designs being stolen and manufactured on a large scale.

You can email: lynne@knitcrochetcreate.com for permission.

Blocked asymmetric crochet shawl laid flat, showing speckled stripes getting wider.

Materials

  • Yarn: 2 x 115g skeins (or balls) of double knitting (light worsted weight) yarn, each 230m (252yds) in length as a minimum
    • Yarn A: Solid colour, 115g/230m/252yds.
    • Yarn B: Contrast or variegated, 115g/230m/252yds (you can also use leftovers).
      • I used Black Elephant UK hand-dyed yarn from my stash, 115g/230m per skein (the colourways are unknown).
  • Hook: 4.5mm (US 7) crochet hook.
  • Notions: wool (tapestry) needle.

Gauge or Tension

Working in pattern (alternating rows of US dc + hdc; UK tr + htr):

  • 16 sts and 11 rows measure 10 x 10cm, before blocking.
  • 15 sts and 12 rows measure 10 x 10cm, after blocking.

Finished Size

Approximately 128cm (50.5in) across the neck edge and 70cm (27.5in) deep along the final row, after blocking.


FREE Crochet Shawl Pattern Information – US terms

Abbreviations

  • beg = beginning
  • ch(s) = chain or chain stitches
  • dc = double crochet
  • hdc = half double crochet
  • hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together (see special stitches)
  • RS = right side
  • 2dc-CL = 2dc cluster (see special stitches)
  • slst = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • WS = wrong side
  • yo = yarn over (also called yarn round hook)

Special Stitches

  • dc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together: yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through, yo, pull through first 2 loops, yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through, yo then pull through all 4 loops on hook.
  • 2dc-CL = 2 double crochet cluster:  *yo, insert hook into next st, yo and pull loop through, yo and pull through first 2 loops*; repeat from * to * once more in same stitch, yo then pull through all loops.

Pattern Notes

  • When changing color, for best results cut yarn, and rejoin when needed.
  • Always change color on the last yo of last stitch.
  • The 2dc-CL at the end of RS rows helps keep the edge stitches neat (see Special Stitches).
  • On WS rows, always work the ‘2hdc in last st’ into the beginning ch3 from previous row, otherwise you will lose a stitch.

Free Crochet Shawl Pattern Begins (US crochet terms)

Use US 7 (4.5mm) hook and Yarn A.

  • Row 1 (RS): Ch4, skip first 3ch (counts as 1dc) then 2dc in next ch. (3 sts)
  • Row 2 (WS): Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1hdc in each st to end (working last hdc into the beg ch3 from previous row), turn. (3 sts)
  • Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 2dc in first st, 1dc in next st, 2dc-CL in last st, turn. (5 sts)
  • Row 4: Ch1, 1hdc in first st, hdc2tog (see Special Stitches), 1hdc in next st, 2hdc in last st, turn. (5 sts)
  • Row 5: Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 2dc in first st, 1dc in each st to last st, 2dc-CL in last st, turn. (7 sts)
  • Row 6: Ch1, 1hdc in first st, hdc2tog, 1hdc in each st to last st, 2hdc in last st, turn. (7 sts)
  • Rows 5 and 6 set the pattern for remainder of the shawl.

Now repeat Rows 5 and 6 in the following colors.

  • Remember to cut yarn at the end of each section (see Pattern Notes for changing color).
  • Rows 7-52: Continue in Yarn A. (53 sts)
  • Rows 53-54: Yarn B. (55 sts)
  • Rows 55-56: Yarn A. (57 sts)
  • Rows 57-60: Yarn B. (61 sts)
  • Rows 61-62: Yarn A. (63 sts)
  • Rows 63-68: Yarn B. (69 sts)
  • Rows 69-70: Yarn A. (71 sts)
  • Rows 71-78: Yarn B. (79 sts)
  • Rows 79-80: Yarn A. (81 sts)
  • Rows 81-90: Yarn B. (91 sts)
  • Rows 91-100: Yarn A. (101 sts)
  • Note: Don’t worry if you run out of Yarn A during these final rows. Just stop at the end of a WS row, fasten off, then move on to the frill. Your shawl will be slightly smaller, but it won’t change how it looks.
  • Cut yarn then fasten off at the end of the last row.
Close-up of crochet stripes in solid purple and neon speckled yarn

Frilled Edge

  • Row 101 (frill): With RS facing, rejoin Yarn B to first stitch with a slst then begin frilled edge. The frill uses picot stitch which is made as follows: ch3, then slst in second ch from hook, slst in next ch (picot completed). Work frill as follows:
  • *Ch3, slst in second ch from hook, slst in next ch (picot is complete), slst in next st*; repeat from * to * to the end of the row, then continue along the next edge of the shawl,
  • repeat from * to * into each row-end, keeping the stitches the same distance apart as the first side. This may require working two lots of ch3 picot into some of the dc row-ends, to keep the stitches looking the same as the first side. Stop when you reach the next corner. Neck edge is frill-free. Fasten off then weave in any remaining ends. Block to measurements given above.
Picot frill edging on a crochet shawl in neon speckled purple yarn

FREE Crochet Shawl Pattern Information – UK terms

Abbreviations

  • beg = beginning
  • ch(s) = chain or chain stitches
  • htr = half treble crochet
  • htr2tog = half treble 2 stitches together (see special stitches)
  • RS = right side
  • tr = treble crochet
  • 2tr-CL = 2tr cluster (see special stitches)
  • slst = slip stitch
  • st(s) = stitch(es)
  • WS = wrong side
  • yrh = yarn round hook (also called yarn over hook)

Special Stitches

  • htr2tog = half treble 2 stitches together: yrh, insert hook into next st, yrh and pull loop through, yrh, pull through first 2 loops, yrh, insert hook into next st, yrh and pull loop through, yrh then pull through all 4 loops on hook.
  • 2tr-CL = 2 treble cluster:  *yrh, insert hook into next st, yrh and pull loop through, yrh and pull through first 2 loops*; repeat from * to * once more in same stitch, yrh then pull through all loops.

Pattern Notes

  • When changing colour, for best results cut yarn, and rejoin when needed.
  • Always change colour on the last yrh of last stitch.
  • The 2tr-CL at the end of RS rows helps keep the edge stitches neat (see Special Stitches).
  • On WS rows, always work the ‘2htr in last st’ into  the beginning ch3 from previous row, otherwise you will lose a stitch.

Free Crochet Shawl Pattern Begins (UK crochet terms)

Use 4.5mm hook and Yarn A.

  • Row 1 (RS): Ch4, skip first 3ch (counts as 1tr), then 2tr in next ch. (3 sts)
  • Row 2 (WS): Ch1 (does not count as a st throughout), 1htr in each st to end (working last htr into the beg ch3 from previous row), turn. (3 sts)
  • Row 3: Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr in first st, 1tr in next st, 2tr-CL in last st, turn. (5 sts)
  • Row 4: Ch1, 1htr in first st, htr2tog (see Special Stitches), 1htr in next st, 2htr in last st, turn. (5 sts)
  • Row 5: Ch3 (counts as 1tr), 2tr in first st, 1tr in each st to last st, 2tr-CL in last st, turn. (7 sts)
  • Row 6: Ch1, 1htr in first st, htr2tog, 1htr in each st to last st, 2htr in last st, turn. (7 sts)
  • Rows 5 and 6 set the pattern for remainder of the shawl.

Now repeat Rows 5 and 6 in the following colors.

  • Remember to cut yarn at the end of each section (see Pattern Notes for changing color).
  • Rows 7-52: Continue in Yarn A. (53 sts)
  • Rows 53-54: Yarn B. (55 sts)
  • Rows 55-56: Yarn A. (57 sts)
  • Rows 57-60: Yarn B. (61 sts)
  • Rows 61-62: Yarn A. (63 sts)
  • Rows 63-68: Yarn B. (69 sts)
  • Rows 69-70: Yarn A. (71 sts)
  • Rows 71-78: Yarn B. (79 sts)
  • Rows 79-80: Yarn A. (81 sts)
  • Rows 81-90: Yarn B. (91 sts)
  • Rows 91-100: Yarn A. (101 sts)
  • Note: Don’t worry if you run out of Yarn A during these final rows. Just stop at the end of a WS row, fasten off, then move on to the frill. Your shawl will be slightly smaller, but it won’t change how it looks.
  • Cut yarn then fasten off at the end of the last row.

Frilled Edge

  • With RS facing, rejoin Yarn B to first stitch with a slst then begin frilled edge. The frill uses picot stitch which is made as follows: ch3, then slst in second ch from hook, slst in next ch (picot completed). Work frill as follows:
  • *Ch3, slst in second ch from hook, slst in next ch (picot is complete), slst in next st*; repeat from * to * to the end of the row, then continue along the next edge of the shawl,
  • repeat from * to * into each row-end, keeping the stitches the same distance apart as the first side. This may require working two lots of ch3 picot into some of the treble row-ends, to keep the stitches looking the same as the first side. Stop when you reach the next corner. Neck edge is frill-free. Fasten off then weave in any remaining ends. Block to measurements given on first page.
Woman wearing a purple striped crochet shawl wrapped around her neck.

FREE PDF - US VERSION

Winter Frills Shawl Free PDF

​

Pop your name and email address in the form and I’ll send the PDF to your inbox.

    I will keep in touch with newsletters and offers. You can unsubscribe at any time. For more details, review my Privacy Policy.

    FREE PDF - UK VERSION

    Winter Frills Shawl Book Free PDF

    ​

    Pop your name and email address in the form and I’ll send the PDF to your inbox.

      I will keep in touch with newsletters and offers. You can unsubscribe at any time. For more details, review my Privacy Policy.

      FAQs: Free Crochet Shawl Pattern

      Is this crochet shawl pattern suitable for beginners?

      It's best for advanced beginners. If you know US hdc; UK htr and US dc; UK tr and can count your stitches, you'll be fine, and all the special stitches are explained step by step.

      Can I use a different yarn weight?

      Yes, but your shawl will be a different size and you'll need a different amount of yarn. Use a hook that gives you a fabric you like, and check your gauge first.

      How much of Yarn B do I need if I'm using leftovers?

      Yarn B is used for 30 rows of stripes plus the frill, which is a fair amount and is almost the full amount of yarn specified for Yarn B (115g/230,/252yds). If you're using scraps, gather together the same amount given in the Materials section, keeping a longer length aside for the frill. If needed you can change colour for the second, longer edge of the frill.

      Why can't I carry the yarn up the side?

      Carrying the yarn pulls on the row-ends, so the edge doesn't look as neat and doesn't block as well. Cutting and rejoining gives the best finish.


      Share Your Makes

      If you love this pattern, then I'd love to see your finished book sleeves! Tag me on Instagram @knitcrochetcreate and use the hashtag #StashToSparkle2026 so I can admire your creations.


      About Lynne from Knit Crochet Create

      Lynne Rowe is a UK-based knitting and crochet designer and best-selling author, recognised for her clear, easy-to-follow patterns and also her dedication to making knitting and crochet accessible to everyone. She is the founder of Knit Crochet Create, with a strong focus on stash-busting projects that promote sustainable, mindful making. Lynne's work encourages the use of your yarn stash, therefore helping you transform small leftovers into joyful creations.

      Let's keep in touch!

      I'd love to chat more.

      Sign up for my newsletter and receive a weekly dose of crafting inspiration, featuring the latest trends, tips, and projects to fuel your creativity.

      Love this? Share it on Pinterest or Facebook.

      Similar Posts You'll Love

      Leave a Reply

      Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *